DAY ELEVEN

Well it had to rain didn't it. Uruguay was bright and sunny most days so I guess we were in for it once we hit Argentina.  However, our spirits have not been dampened.  Last night's dinner was at a favourite place of Alan's called El Mirasol.  I regret the cows didn't fare too well. The steaks were so large we decided to share one and it was, as Alan had promised, truly great.  I left space for dessert, or so I thought.  Then the waiter brought out a small mountain.

See. I kid you not. But being the good solider that I am, I went for it. Fortunately we walked home.

Today for our morning coffee we relaxed at the famous cafe, La Biela under the shade of a tree which is just slightly smaller than Tasmania.  Later we strolled through the Recoleta Cemetery. I was expecting to see tombstones, as you do in a cemetery.

Not quite. Here there are streets of mausoleums, some of them big enough to be churches. It is incredible. I'd hate to be here on All Souls Day. It must get very crowded. From live persons as well.

Compared to some, the mausoleum of Eva Peron (Evita) is rather humble.

She seems to get the most visitors but obviously wasn't home when we were there.

On an even sadder note, during the country's military rule between 1976 and 1982 the government set out to suppress those it saw as enemies. As a result some 30,000 people, mostly of college age, disappeared. Not even their bodies were ever found.  They are referred to as Los Desaparecidos (the disappeared ones) and most Thursdays at 3:30 pm their mothers parade at Plaza de Mayo demanding to know the truth. We went there but because of the rain they did not protest today.

But the true highlight of the day was the discovery, not far from our apartment, of a laundry. And it isn't self serve either. We'll probably have to use up the rest of our spending money to pay for it but it will be worth it. My socks were starting to walk about on their own so emergency action was called for.

Tonight it's Steaks By Luis.  This will be an experience. Whether it will be a positive one remains to be seen. You'll know tomorrow.